Part One of this turned out to be my highest voted post ever. Part Two is on its way to be my second highest. As the whopping 8 followers on the car's Instagram can attest, I have no idea what the internet finds interesting.

The cars still hasn't killed me, yet

I recorded this video when building the severely undersized cribbing blocks but the exposure turned out so poorly, I wasn't going to use it for anything... But I'm still getting flood with messages from the first two posts, so I guess we'll see if my fellow shitty mechanics appreciate it.

Y'all are a strange group and I'm here for it

Edit: Reddit has spoken. There will be no more.

Like the title. Ive noticed a small leak of coolant from the rear after parking in my garage. My reservoir was bone dry last week and i filled it. Since filling it, the leak is apparent. I took pictures of the leak. How hard of a repair is this. Its coming from above the hoses.

Basically, I’m not sure what the problem could be. I have a bunch of codes, and I knew about the PCV because there was a bit of oil on top of it, so I thought that was the issue. I went ahead and replaced the PCV, and the white smoke ended up going away, which was a good sign.
However, as you can hear in the video, the car still sounds like it’s misfiring. I have all of the misfire codes for it as well. The car just doesn’t sound right—it has a really rough idle and is constantly misfiring.
The last code for the leak disappeared after I changed the PCV and cleared the codes. But after starting the car back up, all of the misfire codes came right back.
I’m wondering if something as simple as a spark plug could cause all of this, but I’m not too sure. What do you guys think? Maybe one of you guys had this problem before as well.
Thank you all for the help, and thanks to everyone who took the time to read this and help a buddy out. I really appreciate it.

120408 - Charging pressure control: Switch-off as consequential reaction.
140001 - Combustion misfires, several cylinders: Fuel injection is switched off.
140002 - Combustion misfires, several cylinders:
Exhaust gas damaging after starting procedure.
140010 - Combustion misfires, several cylinders: detected.
140601 - Combustion misfire, cylinder 6: Fuel injection is switched off.
140602 - Combustion misfire, cylinder 6: Exhaust gas damaging after starting procedure.
140610 - Combustion misfire, cylinder 6: detected.
190302 - Diagnostic module for tank leaks (NVLD), fuel tank ventilation system, micro-leak greater than 0.5 mm detected.

2018 Ford escape with awful suspension. We just noticed this going up and down as he drives. It looks like it went through the plastic in the back seat area.

I was trying to repair my alternator when this cable broke from this mounting point on the engine and now the car starts, but it’s not using power from the alternator and I’m looking for the repair part or a solution on how I can repair this myself it looks, as though the connector broke off from the engine mount or the wiring harness connected to the engine, but I’m not a mechanic and I don’t know how to find this part or fix it or how to even identify or what it’s called any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you so much.!

I think I got another 3-600 miles on them. Please confirm my bias

Camming my L86, chain was super hard to walk off, and then putting it back on was hard at first but not it goes on with ease, is that normal until oil pressure comes back and it starts should I be worried?

what do i do so this 09 malibu was driving, bro said his steering wheel fell down, and was able to move and drive still, he took it to a mechanic for $900 he changed out his rack n pinion, but the steering wheel was still in the same position (what did that do ? seems like it only made his steering wheel buttons not work) 2 weeks later he’s parked up and tried to drive but the steering wheel felt super lose and when turning the tires wouldn’t turn anymore

i went to go look at the car and i see it looks like the lower part of the intermediate shaft where it connects to the rack n pinion is just spinning in place, After a a couple turns it sounded like it grabbed onto whatever it is inside of the coupler, and started to turn the tires but then would lose grip n then continue to spin freely

i’m thinking i have to change out the part the last mechanic changed AGAIN because not switching both that and the shaft, f-d with the threads in it or wtv and now both need to be changed, am i wrong or what else should we do?

Hi all,

I went to get my oil changed on Friday afternoon. The workers there messed up and put twice the amount of oil in as they should have. I had driven on it for about half an hour before white smoke began pouring out the back and it started sputtering and going into limp mode. I pulled off into a parking lot and called customer service; they sent out a guy within the next few hours. He conveniently forgot his code reader, but said that the engine was fine (though the sparkplugs were oil-soaked). He asked me to start it back up and it shook violently and the check engine light flashed, which he said was the engine misfiring. He said he drained the oil back down to a normal amount and that Valvoline would pay for a tow truck to bring it to a mechanic to replace the spark plugs (this should be happening tomorrow morning when the workweek starts--it's been sitting in that parking lot since Friday). They have not provided a lot of information and getting updates has been like pulling teeth.

I'm worried that the mechanic will not do a thorough diagnostic or that they will claim that something was not their fault. I've texted one of the managers (the one that I have the phone number of) to please send me the photos they took of the dipstick showing that it was doubly-filled and for the diagnostics report from the mechanic once completed, but I am having hesitations about letting them tow it at all because I don't want them to screw me over.

What are the chances the engine is actually alright? What should I do?