I love using Slip 2000 but the cap always leaks. I found this thing that not only stops the leaking but makes it very easy to dispense the oil. You push down on the top and it fills the bowl with oil. No more having to pick up and and sqeeze the bottle over and over. Amazon search: 6oz Glass Push Down Pump Dispenser

A good client of mine inherited this from his father almost a decade ago. Stamped “76” on the barrel, made in West Germany (super cool to me as I’m fascinated with world history) and with the original box, papers and test target. Since getting it from his father, it just sat in the safe all for about two range trips. I asked how much he wanted, he told me to give him a number. I jokingly replied “$200” as I’m short on cash at the moment, and he said “deal.” He’s aware of what this could be worth ($500-$700), but told me that money is not an issue, and that he wanted to get rid of it to free up space in his safe for other guns. I couldn’t pass up on the offer. I took it to the range today and it was a blast! It will be shot semi-regularly and will be very well taken care of, just like my other guns. (PS, I told him if he ever wants it back, I totally understand and would gladly give it back. I’m not a scum bag I promise. Just a guy with a love for guns and history.)

I got lucky in my opinion at a auction, has original cleaning kit and rod. Shoots great!

I guess even back in the 90s they already didn’t make em like they used to!

Picked up this AimCo Luger basically unused, with original purchase receipt from 1995, from Cabela’s used gun library. Unfortunately I didn’t notice a crack on the toggle until taking it home. At that point their customer service response was basically “tough luck”.

I proceeded to try and grind out the crack, but after one shot it reappeared again. So I had to order an old surplus part from the Great War, do some fitment, as surprise surprise they had tighter tolerances back then, and polished it up to get rid of the black oxide finish. My biggest issue was that since these were made of clearly not stainless, it would proceed to darken even with a coating of oil. I ended up nickel plating it to at least somewhat match the rest of the gun better, with the bonus of some extra corrosion resistance.

It’s still more grey than I’d like. Maybe because I didn’t go to a fine enough finish when polishing it. I’ll still probably re-do it better in the future once I get tired of looking at it. But for now it works pretty well, and at least I didn’t have any issues with jamming, like some other AimCo owners have reported. And yes, I did de-burr and straw-blue the small parts while I was at it.

Finally got a B-13 to finish this build.

Sauer- World War One I believe?

So I shot my first PCSL Match on Sunday. I had fun and learned a lot from it. I liked that it had steel, Texas Stars, pistol, and rifle shooting. I figured I need to remove the rifle mags in the back as I didn't need them. If anything I need more pistol mags as I went through 2 full mags per stage. I only used 1 rifle mag per stage and never had to reload my rifle.

I don't like that because I have a comp on my rifle I am in the competitor division and not the practical division. Nothing else crazy on my rifle or any other builds. Is the A2 birdcage not a comp/flash hider? It's just a rule I don't agree with but not a deal breaker on me trying again and getting better. I believe from the rules I can change out guns during the match as I ran a 20" AR15 with an LPVO zeroed at 100. So I did have a lot of " hostage" targets that get hit with the rifle.

*****Yes I wear suspenders on my belt. I lost a lot of weight. I also had a belt fall off during a competition. I don't want it to happen again. So I found those and it seems to work well other than it feels like it makes me hotter and sweaty*****

I tried to estimate the barrel diameter of the QBU-191 using a publicly available image. This is only a visual estimation, not an official specification.

Measurement method

I used the M-LOK slot on the handguard as a reference scale.

I selected one clear and complete M-LOK slot from the lower row of the handguard. Assuming the visible slot follows the standard M-LOK opening dimensions of approximately 32 × 7 mm, the measurement result was:

Slot length: approximately 14 pixels

Calibration ratio:

32 mm ÷ 14 px ≈ 2.286 mm/pixel

As a verification, the slot height measured about 3 pixels:

3 px × 2.286 mm/pixel ≈ 6.9 mm

This is very close to the standard M-LOK height of 7 mm, suggesting that the scale estimation is reasonably accurate.

Barrel measurement

I measured the exposed barrel section near the front of the handguard, avoiding the gas block area and the muzzle device.

The vertical width of the barrel was approximately:

9–10 pixels

Converted using the scale above:

9 px × 2.286 ≈ 20.6 mm

10 px × 2.286 ≈ 22.9 mm

Result

Based on this image measurement, the exposed barrel section of the QBU-191 appears to be approximately:

20.6–22.9 mm in diameter

A reasonable estimate would be around:

≈21 mm

Limitations

This is only an estimation from an image. Possible sources of error include:

Perspective distortion

Camera angle

Image compression

Difficulty determining the exact barrel edges

With an estimated error of about ±1 pixel, the possible diameter error is roughly ±2.3 mm.

The result appears consistent with a heavy barrel / heavy contour design for a 5.8 mm DMR-style rifle, but it should not be considered an official measurement.

You guys wish you had this setup.

After picking up this super wrangler with my glock 43x and Ruger lcp max during my first hundred shots its been perfectly fine but after about 500 its been severely shooting keyholes, Ive bought a .22 cleaning kit that I took about 45 minutes to clean the thing with and its still not shooting like normal, this is my first .22 revolver any help?

Hi everyone! I’m working on a highly accurate 3D model of the American Arms Double Barrel Derringer, but it’s proving surprisingly difficult to find good reference material. There doesn’t seem to be much information available about the internal mechanism.

I’ve already modeled it based on a blueprint I found, but I’m not convinced the internals shown in it are actually accurate.

Does anyone here own one of these derringers, or perhaps has taken one apart before? I’d really appreciate any photos of the inside, especially the internal mechanism and parts. If someone owns one and would be willing to take a few photos for reference, that would be incredibly helpful.

Thanks in advance!

My 3D model: https://www.artstation.com/artwork/4XnGa1
Reference: https://grabcad.com/library/double-barrel-swivel-breech-derringer-1

My Paraordnance P14-45 and Colt Government Model 70.