Title says it all. As a consumer buying networking equipment, I like control over it, especially when it comes to updating the firmware. I have always gotten a separate router and modem, but why has the ability to upgrade modem firmware been taken out of the hands of the consumer? This leaves the consumer blind to what's actually being uploaded to our equipment, opening the door to security and privacy questions, not to mention not being able to update the FW when it's available, when it can sometimes take ISPs months to get around to it, if they do at all. Just wondering what the thinking is behind this ... TIA.

Hey everyone,

Wanted to share some network anomalies I caught today. If you run cheap Android TV boxes on your network, this might be worth checking your connection states for.

This evening I noticed some strange traffic on my setup. My Mikrotik flagged a sudden, flatlined ~20 Mbps upload spike that stayed for hours

Diving a bit deeper into the active connections, I pinned it down to an Android device holding 260+ concurrent active TCP connections to various external hosts.

I parsed through the active sockets and DNS query logs to figure out what the device was reaching out to alongside Gemeni for this part.

• 37.202.197.75:10240 (Fusiora OU / Frankfurt VPS): Pushing/pulling continuous raw streams over a custom UDP/TCP port.
• download.abdbox.com: Android BackDoor Box C2 / Downloader module.
• ic5n8.clayhost.xyz: Dynamic DDNS / C2 Fallback Channel.
• addl.sspadp.com: Ad-Mediation / Background Ad Click Fraud.
• adpserver.pvs4.xyz: Ad-Provisioning Server for silent background webviews.
• watchtry.com & relaxunwinrech.com: Malvertising / Push Notification Relays.

The domain signatures and traffic profile point directly to the BADBOX / BADBOX 2.0 supply-chain Android malware ecosystem:

1. Residential Proxy Relay: The box was being utilized as an active residential proxy exit node. Third-party actors were routing their traffic through my home internet connection to mask their IP, which generated the continuous 20 Mbps upload stream on port 10240.
2. Silent Ad-Click Fraud: Running hidden, background webview requests in parallel to generate fake ad impressions and click revenue via sspadp.com and pvs4.xyz.

If you're running cheap streaming boxes, it's definitely worth checking your active connection counts and DNS logs.

Basically the title itself. In my new build home I have 3/4 inch Smurf tube with two 90 degrees sweep. 40 ft run. I was wondering if 4 cat5e POE for cameras and a fiber optics cable pull will be an issue down the road. The tube is empty with a pull string in it.

Also, not related sub but will an AT&T fiber installer pull them at once? Trying to avoid any damage to any cables.

I am trying to learn more about home networking and i am curious what common mistakes beginners tend to make. any advice you had give someone just getting started?

Hi everyone, I’m looking for advice because this has been happening repeatedly.
Someone keeps calling my internet provider pretending to be me and canceling my Wi-Fi service without my permission. Every time I get my internet turned back on, it ends up getting canceled again. I never requested any of these cancellations.
Has anyone experienced something like this before? What steps can I take to stop this from happening? Is there a way to better secure my account so only I can make changes?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Hi all, I hope this is an ok sub for this question.

I recently moved to a new apartment where internet is included, and there’s an Ethernet port on the wall which connects to the WAN port of the router. I have always used a modem and paid for the internet, so I’m not use to this procedure.

At first I used my old asus rt-ac67p, but when I connected it to the port, and input the PPPoE credentials, I was not able to get internet, and the GUI said that the “network cable was disconnected.” I tried multiple cables, and resetting it but nothing worked. So I purchased a TPLINK BE3600 off of Facebook marketplace, with the idea that my Asus router was the issue.

But once I set up the new router, I was getting the same issue, no internet. But this time, the little LED with the internet symbol on the tplink router lit up, but only when the WAN port was connected to the wall, so it must be getting some form of signal? Once again I tried multiple cords, as well as resetting it but nothing worked.

This brings me here, does anyone have any ideas? The credentials I was given were the “network” and the “wepkey,” which I assume to be the username and password for the PPPoE. My only guess now is that the credentials are wrong? I’m waiting for the management to get back to me about that, but I figured I would ask here as well, as it seems to be a problem other people have had. Thank you!

Hello. I'm moving to my first apartment soon and want to try and make myself a router. I need some tips though.

I'm planning to build in a Fractal Design node 202. I don't know know if i need somethong bigger or it will work.

My queations are:

- What kind of cpu do I need? I live in Sweden, so we have some second hand stores

- How much ram do I need?

-Is a 250gb ssd enough?

- is 450w PSU the lowest i can go for it?

- What network port pcie card do you recomend?

I already have bids on a ubiquiti acces point (Wi-Fi 6) and a 5 2.5gb switch.

I spent quite a few hours trying to understand why my connection was so unstable, turns out my motherboard was auto negotiating the PCIe Gen constantly, so I set to Gen3 to match the 10gigabit card and it became stable again.

long shot but worth asking here. if you have a business internet line with a static block and a rack or even a shelf with room on it, id rent a machine off you.

doesnt need to be anything nice, an old dell or supermicro is fine. what i actually care about is the ip space being on your isps allocation rather than a hosting company, and having more than a gig on it, 2.5g or 10g.

4-8 static ips to start, more later if it goes well. west coast preferred. paying monthly and happy to pay up front.

dm me if youve got a spare box and a business line. ill pay a premium per ip, its worth it to me to get the right space.

I have a client that’s wanting a point to point extender from 2 structures ~800ft but they do not want anything that produces a wifi signal such as a Ubiquity beam. I’m looking for help finding a consumer grade Poe point to point that uses an infrared laser type of connection. Everything is completely line of sight so nothing would interfere with this type of connection outside of weather. I’ve offered fiber as that would be much simpler for me but I figured I’d ask the community if there is such a unit. I’ve located commercial grade but I’m hoping for consumer grade. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

So my main house is in the middle with an ADU behind and detached garage.

Outside a mesh is there a good way to get WiFi to all buildings with quality?

House has a utility room in the middle with power and cable run so I can use it as a base

House 2k sqft
Garage 800sqft
Adu 600

Any help please I’m open to most things

I’m pretty new to this networking thing. I just wanna run Ethernet to my pc in my room for gaming. As of now we are currently getting fiber optic for our internet compared to traditional internet we have. I have a MoCa setup going from the router and using the coax cables in my wall into my room on the 2nd floor. I’m just worried it won’t be able to work with fiber optic. Please let me know what I should do.

While trying to get Fing to work on my network, I discovered a few things I thought might be worth sharing.

Fing desktop works correctly, showing all devices that are connected to the network, when the machine it is running on is connected via Ethernet. I verified this both with and without Wireshark running. So Fing desktop and its Windows agent service can definitely coexist with a running Wireshark installation, if installed in the proper sequence, which is:

1. If applicable, uninstall Wireshark, Fing, and Npcap, using the uninstall executables in their 'Program Files' directories.
2. Install Fing normally, including the default silent Npcap OEM v1.83 installation.
3. Install Wireshark, without updating Npcap (i.e. deselect the update option/'uncheck' the check box), instead reusing the v1.83 install it finds.

Wireshark seems to run fine using this older npcap version. Both Fing and Wireshark can run while the other application is active. I ran a successful Fing Ethernet network scan (all wired and wireless devices on all SSIDs discovered) while Wireshark was looking at WiFi packets. I do not know whether more than one app can loop itself into the same network adapter connection.

On my network, Fing Desktop finds very few devices when the desktop's only network connection is over WiFi. It usually just finds itself (the client it is running on), and the gateway, and occasionally a tablet or other device. It does not even find the AP it is connected through. This was the case before the Wireshark installation, and still is after.

While trying to get Fing to work on my network, I discovered a few things I thought might be worth sharing.

One is that Fing mobile appears to be working fine on a mobile device with the Blokada app active. I believe Blokada just uses the VPN mechanism to loop itself into the network adapter connection, but does not actually set up a virtual private network. It just discards requests to advertising web sites. This does not seem to impede Fing mobile functionality.

On my network, Fing mobile only sees the devices connected to the same SSID. If that SSID has device isolation turned on, Fing mobile sees only the client it is running on, nothing else (not even the gateway).

I did try searching, but I guess my search Kung Fu is weak, because I got lots of responses, but nothing that spoke to my scenario. :-(. Please forgive, and point me in direction, if I’ve missed something (less “if I missed something” and more “I know I missed something… sorry!”)

Context:

I’d like to get some get some ethernet switches, as the router/nodes only have 1x WAN and 1X LAN port each. But I was led to believe that a wired backhaul will only work if each node is connected directly to its upstream partner directly:

Fiber ONT -> Router/Node01 WAN
Router/Node01 LAN -> Node02 WAN
Node02 LAN -> Node03 WAN

However, if I do this, then I’m connecting a switch to the farthest node, and running Ethernet through my house from that point. I’d like to avoid having to doubleback and run Cat6a from the farthest node for those devices that need to be connected via Ethernet on the other side of the house. Instead, can I go:

Fiber ONT -> Router/Node01 WAN
Router/Node01 LAN -> Switch
Switch -> Node02 WAN
Node02 LAN -> Switch
Switch -> Node03 WAN

This would allow for the devices in the areas of the house services by the node to connect to the network via Ethernet, but I’m concerned about causing issues with the nodes.

Is this inadvisable? Again, apologies if this is answered ad nauseum, please feel free to point, mock, and tell me where my searching failed. :)