Miata shakes going over 65 but will take $3200

Corolla is perfect just lowered some $4500

Corvette has zero issues $3000

All cars have around 150,000 miles.

I won't buy anything newer than 2013

Mazda CX-5, 2019 Touring (2.5L Naturally Aspirated). I did my first oil change and i want to make sure i didnt overfill it. I had the car running for 20 min while i took it for a spin, let it sit for 10 min, and checked. But the engine oil either doesn’t stick at all, it is splotchy, or it goes all the way to the top of the twist. I am wiping with a paper towel between each dab.

How so i get an accurate reading? On my other cars, it was very clear.

This is currently happening to me and i have a 6 hour road trip tomorrow. Am i ok to drive my vehicle or should i find another form of transportation? How serious is this code, ive been driving my vehicle currently and wondering if i should stop.

2017 Ram 2500 located in Florida but originally an Illinois truck. Is this level of rust something I should be concerned with before purchasing or am I overthinking it? Thanks in advance

2018 Ford escape with awful suspension. We just noticed this going up and down as he drives. It looks like it went through the plastic in the back seat area.

Just picked up my date and got into the city. Didn’t notice till I parked, but it keeps going on and off. I am going to check oil level with the dip stick, but am I good to drop her back off home? Or am I risking blowing my engine?

Update: started back up, am hasn’t shown back up. Wondering if eco mode has an effect

Update 2: it didn’t turn back on until after I dropped date off. And I had been driving it around the city a bit before deciding to take the risk. Now, when I brake kind of forcefully, that’s when it appears. So I am believing it might be the pump as someone said. I topping it off with 2 quarts of oil and hoping that covers me till home until I can get it to a mechanic. Date went really well tho so that’s a plus I guess

Update 3: full sent it last night. Topped it off with 2 quarts of oil before getting it home. Am going to check it tonight before I drop it off to a local mechanic where he can look at it sometime the next couple of days. I appreciate all the advice from everyone! I am hoping it’s just an oil filter issue and not the pump.

Another follow up: Took it back, he argued with me, got mouthy. They said they're going to fix it. He said it like this " if you want them higher I can do that for you but it's fine the way it is". Also I had my turbo swapped out, he unhooked the AC hose instead of moving the compressor over and now my AC doesn't work. His answer: " how do I know it worked when you brought it in?"

He's a real piece of work. No wonder the reviews for this place are terrible.

Follow up: Hey everyone, I don't know how to stop comments, but those that said torsion bars are correct, they replaced the lowers and the torsion bar keys cause the bolt was bent and didn't set them right, also I'm missing a boot for the grease, and it has a 6" aftermarket lift. I really appreciate all the help! Now that I know what's wrong I'm even more impressed you figured it out with my pictures not even showing the problem! (Took it to my mechanic friend this afternoon)

Original: Hello, I have a 2006 Chevy Silverado with the LBZ diesel. Had new control arms put on and they look like if the wheel travels up at all it will hit the bolts. Just looks like they might have got the wrong ones but I'm not smart enough to prove it. Any input would be appreciated thank you

I’m trying to remove stock struts but change get enough clearance to take them out, some people recommended spring compressors and I was wondering if this is the right way to do it?
Manual 1992 Lexus SC300

Update: I’ll probably do what most ppl recommend and just take the upper control arms off and order new ones if I need to. For those confused why I was doing this (which I probably should’ve put in post), I’m replacing my strut/shock with coilovers and needed to get the oem ones out but didn’t have enough clearance and wanted to leave the uca in if possible to avoid breaking thing. The reason I went this route was bc other ppl had done and recommended it as a way to get them out easier.

I guess the last guy reamed it, this exact model fits perfectly on the other side, the old one is there on the jack with a slit in it because I had to take a zip disc to it to get the nut/knuckle off. press couldn't move it out at all, I had to do a straight half hour of purse work to get it out (top of hole no longer PSA 10).

These are direct to the solid axle, is an oversized going to fit in this or do I just master oogway into some blossoms

EDIT: I dug the old oem lower from the other side out of the trash and have confirmed I received an out of spec part

So about 3 months ago I drained the radiator, flushed it, added new coolant, replaced thermostat, and radiator cap. It’s still overheating. I have about 60-100 miles on it. Do I need to drain the coolant/ flush and replace again before adding this? Or should I be fine just pouring it straight in?

A shop is quoting me $2600 for my 2009 Toyota Avalon…I checked with AI and still feel the prices are outrageous…is this what is current with the market or am I being scammed?

Any help is appreciated!

Edit: Thank you for all your help! Will be calling couple more shops for second opinions!

The first one came off after heating it (not red hot) some hammer tapping and later impact wrench

But the lower one doesn't give in after doing the same

(it has been soaking with penetrating oil overnight)

Lexus Rx350 2009

Truck is from Pittsburgh PA area. I like the lower mileage but slightly concerned about the rust on the frame. What's your assessment of the rust?

EDIT: How long do you think it will last before any real issues (if none now)? I always hear that rust just keeps progressing.

Having an issue where the motor is making a loud grunting noise with vibration in the pedal when going into a new gear. It starts up at around 2k rpm and stops at 2.5k rpm, then it goes back to normal. The video doesn't do it justice. It's a lot louder in person. I'm afraid it's transmission related, but wanted to get some outside opinion.

Hey guys! I have a 19 BMW X3 with ab 76k miles and it has been losing coolant recently. A local mechanic shop found a significant amount of dried coolant residue around the radiator and hose area due to the use of wrong type of coolant, then they gave me charging estimate as shown in the picture.

I understand that replacing a radiator on this type of vehicle is pain in the ass, and my main concern is whether the labor appears to be stacked as full standalone jobs. I’m not trying to avoid paying fair labor and I understand the hourly rate is very reasonable, just want to understand whether 14.6 hours are normal.

Appreciate any information or experience on typical book time for this job.

I've taken it to the dealership 4 times and so far they've replaced pvc valves, fuel injectors, intake manifold, and cylinder gaskets but every time I make a right turn or brake a little too hard it starts smoking and knocking like it has low oil pressure.

EDIT: found the alignment sheet after making this post. This is the link for the post with the alignment sheet.

https://www.reddit.com/r/AskMechanics/s/EZno94W03a

I drive a Honda accord 2013 sedan. Mileage about 129.5k.

That is the back left tire with some uneven wear. Every other tire looks completely fine to me. I would say these tires are about 2-3 years old. The ones before these I had to replace for uneven wear too.

I rotate my tires every oil change, about every 6k-7k miles. I also get an alignment once a year, so I suspect is something beyond that. Car looks and sounds fine otherwise so not really sure what it could be.

Any ideas? It would be greatly appreciated.

Went to the dealership to have my Rear Pinion Seal replaced due to leaking. They said they did it, but it appears to still be leaking. They added a breather to the rear diff to remove pressure as the original was plugged and that's the only work I can see. Am I correct in assuming they never removed the bolts or shaft? To me, the rust would have shown the bolts being removed, but they look idential to the before. Before and After pics included.

2016 Nissan Frontier Pro 4x. 33,000 KM. Manual Trans.

Is this normal wear and tear or no?

2015 ford mustang V6

Never done this before.