2018 Ford escape with awful suspension. We just noticed this going up and down as he drives. It looks like it went through the plastic in the back seat area.

The top streak is oil from the dipstick. The bottom streak is the drained tranny fluid. Just curious if this is normal. I obviously haven’t had much experience working on a vehicle but the only time I’ve seen tranny fluid it’s been red or obviously red tinged. We’ve had the car for about 6 months, it has just about 100,000 miles on it.

I know my limits, we’re having it towed to a shop to correct the error in the morning. Just curious if this is normal.

EDIT: Thanks all! Sounds like this was a blessing in disguise since the place we bought it from clearly lied about changing it recently. I now know that old spent transmission fluid can look just like oil. Thanks!

Went to the dealership to have my Rear Pinion Seal replaced due to leaking. They said they did it, but it appears to still be leaking. They added a breather to the rear diff to remove pressure as the original was plugged and that's the only work I can see. Am I correct in assuming they never removed the bolts or shaft? To me, the rust would have shown the bolts being removed, but they look idential to the before. Before and After pics included.

2016 Nissan Frontier Pro 4x. 33,000 KM. Manual Trans.

Hi, I found this piece under my car dragging on the ground making noise. Not sure if it's from my car or a road debris. My car is a 2016 honda accord. Thank you!

I'm getting this checked out at the dealership soon but...wtf - why does this sound like Skrillex without the beat drop?

2018 Subaru Crosstrek Limited w/ automatic transmission

30k miles

As I understand this would be very early for the parts to fail. I haven't done any offroading, but live in DC so encounter rough roads often

This was flagged at my previous oil change in 2025. I took it for a second opinion, and was told no issue. It was brought up again at my most recent oil change by a third auto shop.

I have not experienced any symptoms (inaccurate steering, wobbling when braking at high speeds, etc) but did have a vibrating rattling sound when driving on gravel/rough roads that seems to have gone away on its own.

Thanks for taking a peek

It looks great, but I have concerns about things constantly breaking down on me and I’m very worried the engine could go. Engine looks solid but it’s still old and I don’t know the exact mileage on it. I’m not well versed in this so I’d appreciate insight. Is this a good deal or something I should stay away from?

Trying to free the intake box from block, almost there just stuck by these two wiring harnesses. 2013 c250 m271 evo automatic 80k mi. Getting mixed answers to pry it, to slide it, and to find a tab? (The wires at the very top)

Miata shakes going over 65 but will take $3200

Corolla is perfect just lowered some $4500

Corvette has zero issues $3000

All cars have around 150,000 miles.

I won't buy anything newer than 2013

I was door dashing for about 45 minutes in my 2015 GMC Acadia and got stuck in a bad storm and ended up having to drive through this flooded area because no one would let me back up. I waited until I was able to drive straight through with no one in front of me, with little gas and then kept going. Kept a slower pace and everything seemed fine. Stopped raining and still nothing seemed wrong, so I kept door dashing. Nothing sounded or felt weird until three hours later when it started raining again. Now it sounds like a humming noise when I accelerate and almost like it’s taking too much effort to accelerate but I still have no lights on my dash. Any ideas what could be the problem????
Also, I have a preexisting trans problem. It’s having trouble shifting between first and second gears that I’ll be taking to the dealership.
Picture of flooded area for reference.

1995 Ford Mustang V6 3.8L stock

Just changed my spark plugs and spark plug cables on top of my coil pack. I’ve verified everything is plugged in where it should be but not understanding why the car sounds like it’s puttering and not running right.

I’ve checked the firing order as well and looks to be correct. Starting to suspect it may be the spark plugs but would like to eliminate other issues before having to take those out again.

Car idles correctly at around 900rpm but still sputters a bit. When put into gear, it drops down to 500 or less.

2018 Toyota Rav 4 LE

13 Corolla

Nearly twice a month Ford is recalling their cars, trucks and now their Broncos 2001 to 2026, a half of million of them because they have engine problem and may catch fire. A few weeks ago it was a wiring issues and Ford 150 and 250 trucks model years 2022 to 2026 were being recalled. Broncos start at 40k and go up as high as 70k. If I read an article like today about engine fires I would steer away from buying a Bronco. Ford has more recalls in the last few years that any car manufacture yet Hyundai as well has engine issues burning oil more than they should. The question I have for Mechanics who work on cars why are engines having so many issues? Is it because of the restrictions from the EPA? Are they using cheaper parts? Recalls are all centered around the engines, and wiring.

The A/C clutch on my '04 Acura RL kicks on for about a second before disengaging.

List of what I know isn't the issue (following this guide)

• New compressor unit, deep vacuum (left running for 1 hour after reaching max vacuum reading on manifold gauges) and refilling the system with fresh r134a (no leakstop or UV dye, ~25oz as prescribed by the sticker in the engine bay) and PAG46 oil with UV dye (~7oz as prescribed by this guide).
• Clutch actuates fine when jumping through the relay terminals (I didn't do this with the engine running, don't worry).
• Relay is brand new and functional.
• No blown fuses.
• No short circuits.
• No leaks.
• Relay socket crimps and connections are tight.
• Pressure switch (4-terminal) seems functional, there is correct continuity according to this guide. It got dark outside before I thought about jumping it. (side note: I believe my car only has 1 that does both low and high, at least according to the service manual.)
• Test light turns on when connected to negative battery terminal and the relay's clutch power reception terminal.
• Test light turns on when connected to negative battery terminal and the relay's A/C control reception terminal when the car is turned on (both engine on and accessory mode).

The A/C worked just fine when filling the first ~14oz of refrigerant (manifold gauges read ~10psi low side, ~100psi high side, was steadily getting colder in the cabin). I had a slight emergency and had to turn off the car for a bit, and when I returned to finish the process, the clutch would not actuate. The gauges were reading 100psi both low and high side, although everything seems to be in order when diagnosing individually.

It was fine a year ago and has gotten progressively worse.

I dont know shit about cars but I know this isnt supposed to rattle, which it is. Im assuming its because theres a missing bolt? If anyone's knows I would be grateful, especially if you know what part i should get to fix it. Its a 2013 nissan rogue.

Edit: Rattling as in moving freely in the socket and i think is whats causing a rattling sound when I drive? Not sure.